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This interest is reflected in the titles of two works by Proctor: ‘Fancy Dresses’, Times, 11 December 1911, p. 12. 22           ‘See Our Australian Artists’. George Lambert also painted a … During the last week of June, she was staying at the Queen Adelaide Club (see ‘Social: An Australian Woman Artist’, Observer, Adelaide, 27 June 1914, p. 34; ‘The Ladies: Miss Proctor’s Art Exhibition’, Observer, Adelaide, 11 July 1914, p. 7). 37–40; M. Armour, ‘Mural Decoration in Scotland: Part 1’, vol. ), William S. Ellenden, Sydney, 11 August 1987, cat. The existence of this drawing (Figure study, c.1911–12, pencil on paper, 34.3 x 26.4 cm (National Gallery of Victoria, acc. A preliminary sketch of this subject appears in the early pages of a sketchbook now in the possession of the National Gallery of Australia, Canberra; the other drawings in the first section of this sketchbook all refer to works exhibited prior to 1921. VII, no. The large hat, and the use of black as a contrast in the gloves and wrap, even in summer months, reflect what were then current trends.49See ‘The Choice of Colour in Dress’, Times, 13 March 1911, p. 10; Mulvagh, pp. XIII, no. This proved to be a precursor to a series of disasters for the Sterlings. She was not to return to Australia until October 1912.19Proctor would stay in Sydney for almost two years, leaving to return to England in July 1914. The portrait, which shows the Harbour Bridge under construction behind her, captivated the online community, receiving more views than any other image on the museum’s Flickr Commons page which has received 6.5million hits since 2008. We have lots planned for while we are all social distancing, so sign up to keep up to date. ‘1910’, now in a private collection in Sydney, is one of the few works from this period to be both signed and dated by the artist, perhaps reflecting Proctor’s sense of the importance of locating her image in its precise historical context. Its life was brief. 59, February 1898, pp 12–25. 4, 1985, p. 53, repr. Eleanor Fortescue Brickdale (1872–1945) studied at the Royal Academy Schools and worked in a Pre-Raphaelite manner, as a book illustrator and as a painter in oils and watercolours; Proctor may have read about her in the Studio in 1898 and 1901 (see E. B. S., ‘Eleanor Fortescue Brickdale: Designer and Illustrator’, Studio, vol. The work in question was Yip-i-addy, c.1910 (present whereabouts unknown), a watercolour also exhibited at the Goupil Gallery in 1910.28Goupil Gallery Salon 1910, London, October–December 1910, no. 55           Both Proctor and Amy Lambert worked on costumes for the ‘Episodes’ – a program of entertainment for visiting Australian Commonwealth and State parliamentarians, held at the Imperial Institute in London on 30 May 1911; Proctor herself took the part of one of the Federated States (see A. Lambert, G. W. Lambert, A.R.A. Grace Cossington Smith, The Lacquer Room , 1935-36 14. (As of December 2018, the Portrait Gallery Collection features some 85 Dupain photographs.) ‘Clothes,’ said Miss Proctor, sitting in that white-walled studio of hers where the woodcuts make such attractive spashes [sic] of yellow and magenta and vermilion, ‘fashionable clothes are too much the same.’. Yet he sees her production of such an image as ironic, arguing that she preferred a late-nineteenth-century look: ‘When we remember that Proctor was born in 1879, this predilection for crinolines, parasols and bonnets becomes an obvious part of her formative upbringing’.66Holden, p. 91. They are probably the subject of his drawing The three sisters, 1906 (Queensland Art Gallery, Brisbane). 39           ‘The Changing Mode: The “Jupe-Culotte”’. Straight Lines’, 63           The evidence mounts when we consider that a fan titled, 64           See M. Mackay, ‘Almost Dancing: Thea Proctor and the Modern Woman’, in, 69           She dressed, for example, in ‘moonlight blue and gold brocade’ for the Women’s Hospital Ball in 1923 (, An Orthodox Master and an Individualist: Wang Yuanqi and Daoji, Victorian Foundation for Living Australian Artists, NGV School and Community Support Programs, International Audience Engagement Network (IAE). 80, [1910], p. 126. Preston, Thea Proctor and Hera Roberts. During both her stays in London, the fan was an important part of her oeuvre. ‘Yip-i-addy-i-ay’ was described as ‘boisterous’ and ‘inane’ by theatre critics, but no doubt it was the sheer gaiety of the song and the exquisite costuming of the production – ‘a gorgeous feast for the eye’29B. 61           See, for example, ‘Crinolines? here. 34). Two works titled In Hyde Park, one of them presumably the National Gallery of Victoria’s version, were first exhibited in March 1911 (Exhibition of Works …, Goupil Gallery, March–April 1911, nos 64, 68); both versions are likely to have been painted in the summer of 1910. My assertion that ‘1910’ and Fashions in 1910 are one and the same is based in part on Proctor’s tendency to rename her works as more fitting titles suggested themselves (see note 42 below). ), Barbican Art Gallery, London, 1989). ''Modernism has reached Australia,'' declares a 1929 advertisement for The Home, featuring a photograph by Harold Cazneaux. Straight Lines’. The achievement of the curators is underlined by the absurdly short lead-in time they were given. See Mulvagh, p. 41. “Initially we were just doing it to upload some nice pictures from the collection but as the interest grew the stories came out. Proctor later recalled that her mother was very ambitious for both her children and had them taught the violin from an early age. Fashion and theatricality were clearly central to Proctor’s art in the 1920s and 1930s. 16           Olga Morgan exhibited at the Royal Academy from 1897 till 1904, ceasing to exhibit in London in 1906; Proctor had read about her in the Studio (Proctor letter, 20 November [1903]), and it is interesting to note that Morgan had been in Sydney in 1902. no. Working on silk, with its special qualities, would likewise have appealed, for the artist was always ready to explore new media. By 1905, however, her work was still unexhibited – and in her opinion unexhibitable – and to support herself she tried to get work as an illustrator and to obtain portrait commissions.20Waddell interview. You may choose to use a black and white setting or colour. Two works titled, This work was exhibited, with the incorrect title ‘Idyllic Scene’, in 1987 (see. There quite a number of people dress to express their personalities. I can effect a relationship, but afterwards, I think: was it worth it? NGV International will open 19 December 2020. Image credit: Art Gallery of NSW. 409, 411–13. The National Portrait Gallery acknowledges the Traditional Custodians of Country throughout Australia and recognises the continuing connection to lands, waters and communities. Have you got a historic picture you’d like to know more about? The National Gallery of Victoria acknowledges the Traditional Custodians of Melbourne. She designed a complete room for the Burdekin House exhibition of 1929, including furniture, and also designed furniture for her companion Sydney Ure Smith. What Lambert’s portrait does say about Proctor is that as early as 1903 she was already choosing to wear the most up-to-the-minute fashion. Shall the silhouette of the summer season adopt one definite line? 13–18. In the case of In Hyde Park, a further resonance might also be detected. A preliminary sketch of this subject appears in the early pages of a sketchbook now in the possession of the National Gallery of Australia, Canberra; the other drawings in the first section of this sketchbook all refer to works exhibited prior to 1921. in which the varying styles reflect both current fashion trends and the artist’s own developing sense that dress should express personality and originality. She was always receptive to innovation, and her attitude to ‘the past’ was flexible and very much rooted in the present. Such imagery was very popular with British artists, both male and female, at this time (see J Christian (ed). This is indicated by published descriptions of two unlocated works from this period: Both Proctor and Amy Lambert worked on costumes for the ‘Episodes’ – a program of entertainment for visiting Australian Commonwealth and State parliamentarians, held at the Imperial Institute in London on 30 May 1911; Proctor herself took the part of one of the Federated States (see A. Lambert. no. While scholarly attention has focused on this period, these important themes in Proctor’s work in fact developed out of her experience of the more lively aspects of contemporary English culture during her first period of residence in London, from 1903 to 1912. 9              See A. Email them to and under whom she may then have been studying. 1787, 29 March 1911, p. 871. 89); and The Tryst (Royal Art Society of New South Wales Exhibition (exh. X, no. Constance and Mary were practising artists, and at Constance’s studio Proctor met the artists and exquisites Charles Shannon and Charles Ricketts, and also Charles Conder, whose work she had previously seen in Australia. 62           See Mulvagh, p. 41. That was until digital curator Nicole Cama, fascinated by the shot, posted it on the museum’s Flickr Commons page in the hope of identifying the woman. See if you can recognise these landmarks. A Sketch for jupes culottes fan was also exhibited in 1913 in Melbourne (no. It is the art that the conservative establishment regarded as too decorative to be seen as a part of the canon of art history. 35           The fan designs by these artists were most often not mounted on sticks, but were presented as unmounted works of art – as opposed to the fans made by painters working for fan-making companies. This opinion piece was first publshed in The Conversation. It is fortunate that the Art Gallery Society agreed to sponsor it as a part of its 60th birthday celebrations as it would have otherwise been very hard to find a major sponsor at such short notice. Interestingly, Gloag’s work, like Proctor’s, was collected by Edmund Davis; she too took ‘1860’ as a subject in her work, in 1912 (Reddie, p. 37, repr. In June of that year she had won her first art prize, at the exhibition of the Bowral District Amateur Art Society, for an oil painting of her violin and a bouquet of flowers. 29) was noted in the exhibition catalogue as having been shown at the New English Art Club in 1911, and may therefore be identified with Some ghosts and the jupe-culotte. Some are formal commercial headshots, such as that of an avuncular, bespectacled man in a suit who confidently leans into a closely cropped frame; Dupain has captured the man’s amiable expression with refreshing frankness. Other relevant articles include C. H. B. Quennell, ‘The Decoration of a Commonplace Room’, vol. 42           Goupil Gallery Salon 1911, London, November–December 1911, no. p. 50. Connect with a friend via a virtual movie night and allow yourself to enjoy some black and white cinematography. XIII, no. The note of black in the riding habit is a clever contrast’ (British Australasian, 6 May 1909, p. 17)); and On the sands (‘fine in quality, particularly in the relation of the background to the dark mantle’ (British Australasian, 14 July 1910, p. 11)). The Home , 1928: cover design by Hera Roberts and Adrian Feint 10. p. 208). 13, no. I would like to thank Mrs Thea Waddell for her invaluable assistance, encouragement and friendship during my research into Thea Proctor. Two works titled Sketch in Hyde Park, one of them perhaps the watercolour now in Melbourne, were exhibited at the Goupil Gallery in March 1911 and, interestingly, the reviewer for the Onlooker wrote of this exhibition: I should like to see some more serious work in a bolder style, as the two sketches in Hyde Park show a power of which the unfavourable conditions of fan painting normally prevent an adequate display.46W. Frankly, I refuse to prophesy concerning the jupe culotte. Alethea is the correct spelling of Proctor’s first name, which is often misspelt in auction catalogues as ‘Althea’. 56, repr). ), Sydney, 1901, cat. The portraits in the box are diverse. Moira was teaching at the Royal College of Art in South Kensington at the time Proctor wrote of him to Mrs Irvine (see Watkins, p. 18).

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